Well, I finally took on this ABS project. I knew there was a reason I was delaying it. What a royal PITA. There's not much room around there because they jambed that giant unit in where a master cylinder of 1/4 the size normally sits.
First there are 6 electrical connectors all of different style and design. Three have wire bails of which two you literally need to pick those off, the other with wire bail just pinches closed. The 4th connectors just pulls off. Then the two on top of the reservoir are normal clip style. Then
Then I had to get the brake pipe out the front of the unit off. That took special toothed ratcheting crow's feet as flare wrenches were just spreading.
Then the ABS valve block is held on by 1 bolt and two long studs, you could try to leave this on and remove this with the master but that would mean have to remove the three brake pipes on the bottom of that on, and there's almost no way to get to those especially if your gonna have to fight them which I would because they're somewhat rusted. That means I removed the bolt and the two stud nuts, slide the ABS valve block over as much as possible and sawzalld' the studs in half (the new master has new studs).
Then the two main bolts that hold the unit to the firewall attachment felt like they were gonna break so I ended up spraying those down over the course of a couple days to help it and ensure I didn't break them. To get to these you need to remove the reservoir and the accumulator (make sure to depressurize it first!)
Then..the master is loose, but.the pushrod is held in by a lip inside the backside of the master and getting that off...royal pita, but it comes.
And finally it's off. Now I just need to transfer over the motor and other bits to this new master and re-install it. But I may opt to remove all the brake lines and go have them copied by Inline Tube (which is only an hr away from me) , they'll scan and copy these exactly in stainless for a couple hundred bucks.
It was five days at 2-3hrs/day fighting to get this master off. Wow.
![[Image: NewMasterOldMaster.jpg]](https://snyderworld.org/misc/NewMasterOldMaster.jpg)
![[Image: CarWithoutMaster.jpg]](https://snyderworld.org/misc/CarWithoutMaster.jpg)
First there are 6 electrical connectors all of different style and design. Three have wire bails of which two you literally need to pick those off, the other with wire bail just pinches closed. The 4th connectors just pulls off. Then the two on top of the reservoir are normal clip style. Then
Then I had to get the brake pipe out the front of the unit off. That took special toothed ratcheting crow's feet as flare wrenches were just spreading.
Then the ABS valve block is held on by 1 bolt and two long studs, you could try to leave this on and remove this with the master but that would mean have to remove the three brake pipes on the bottom of that on, and there's almost no way to get to those especially if your gonna have to fight them which I would because they're somewhat rusted. That means I removed the bolt and the two stud nuts, slide the ABS valve block over as much as possible and sawzalld' the studs in half (the new master has new studs).
Then the two main bolts that hold the unit to the firewall attachment felt like they were gonna break so I ended up spraying those down over the course of a couple days to help it and ensure I didn't break them. To get to these you need to remove the reservoir and the accumulator (make sure to depressurize it first!)
Then..the master is loose, but.the pushrod is held in by a lip inside the backside of the master and getting that off...royal pita, but it comes.
And finally it's off. Now I just need to transfer over the motor and other bits to this new master and re-install it. But I may opt to remove all the brake lines and go have them copied by Inline Tube (which is only an hr away from me) , they'll scan and copy these exactly in stainless for a couple hundred bucks.
It was five days at 2-3hrs/day fighting to get this master off. Wow.